By Editors of Fine Woodworking
Development Small tasks deals how you can construct talents through finishing valuable goods. From the editors of excellent Woodworking—the dream workforce of woodworking professionals—this is the last word visible reference for woodworkers of each ability point.
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For best results, (C) x22 71° (D) x22 (E) x24 8. Finish the table. After the last glue joints have dried, trim off the dowel nubs with a Japanese flush-cutting saw (or similar saw with no set, or outward angle, to the teeth), then sand the dowels perfectly flush to the surrounding surface. Sand the entire table with a palm sander and by hand, as needed. Stain and/or finish the table as desired. To retain the natural coloring, apply only a clear finish, such as polyurethane (some products will amber the wood slightly) or beeswax.
3. Install the buildup strips. Leaving the side strips clamped in place, drill countersunk pilot holes through the strips and into the tabletop, spacing them about 1" from each end and every 12" in between, as shown in the bottom-view illustration. Be very careful not to drill through the top face of the tabletop. The countersinks should be only deep enough to set the screw heads slightly below the surface. Drive 1¼" coarse-thread wood or drywall screws into the holes, being careful not to drive too deeply and risk piercing the top.
Assemble the table. Assemble the parts as shown in the exploded drawing, using 1¼" drywall screws driven through countersunk pilot holes. Space the screws about 4" apart, keeping all outer screws at least ⅜" from the panel edges. Have a helper hold the mating pieces as you drill pilot holes, or use clamps as needed. Start the assembly with A, and work your way around and up. All the screws are concealed except those on parts F, G, and H. To minimize the number of visible screws, you don’t have to fasten H to G; H is adequately secured by the joint with E.
Building Small Projects by Editors of Fine Woodworking