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Extra resources for Carpentry - Tables and Chairs
Wood selection is very important. I used teak for this table, but mahogany,oak or even pine will do, if it is high-qualit,v,stabilized wood The wood must be properiy air- or kiln-dried (with no internal tension) and stabilized to d-re shop's environment Boards with a wild and undulating grain pattern or those that bind or warp when ripped are sure to have internal tension and should be avoided. The grain of the tabletop should run acrossits width, and to equalize or minimize warping, I recommend using the opposedheart methocl when gluing up the top, as shown on the table's edge in figure 1 on p.
If you work carefully and check the leg with calipers as you turn, all four legs should come out prett),' close to the dimensions I've given in the drawing on p. 53. I dldn't sand the transitional collar while the piece was on the lathe becauseI didn't want to soften this crisp detail. Instead,I sanded it bv hand after the leg was removed from the lathe, and then I crosscut it to final length. rill bit are pared anoay with a sbarp chisel. Hand pressure is usually sufficient to pare the side ualls of tbe mortise, but a mallet is betterfor squaring up tougber endgrain.
To provide for special occasions. a positive stop for the swing leg The small table I made, as at90", the joint has mating 45' shown in the photo at right, is a chamfers on both aprons, as good example of a late Queen shown in the drawing detail. Anne breakfast table. The 18thThe knuckles can be cut on the century form combines grace tablesaw with a finger-joint jig and versatiliry and making it deand then finished with hand mands the same attributes in the tools. rVith only two joints to cut, craftsman The half-blind dovethough, I opted to make the entailed aprons,rule-jointedleaves tire joint with hand tools.
Carpentry - Tables and Chairs